Almost time to glue it together. I spent the afternoon working out how to assemble the spare tires. With those staying in place with the help of a little double sided tape I went on to the headlights. I cut the mounting bar to length and taped it to the underside of the wings. Why stop there? I decided to put on the wheels and take some pictures.
If anyone has comments, members of the MSCCC can ask the webmaster at
morgansportscarclubofcanada@gmail.com for an invitation to become a blog contributor. That will allow you to comment on postings as you please. Others can email the webmaster with your comments and and he will post them.
Thursday, 29 November 2012
Saturday, 24 November 2012
Wooden Morgan: 1950 DHC - Week 13
Remember the log of Hop Hornbeam beside the car in the last picture from week 11? It is now five hub caps, two headlights, and a fog light.
Hoping it would let me shape each hub cap identically, I made a scraper with the hub cap profile.
After Al turned the rest of the Hop Hornbeam work piece to hub cap diameter, we found that the piece, without the tailstock supporting it, wobbled too much to work the end. So rather than turning each hubcap on the lathe then parting it off as planned, I cut six disks off the piece with the aid of the perpendicular magnetic saw guide (One extra for experimentation.) I marked the centre on a face of each one, then drilled a shallow 5/16" hole for the axle on one of them to test if I could turn them on my drill press/lathe. The disk spun with only a slight wobble ( the centre holes were all off by a 32nd) The scraper proved hopeless for shaping the hub caps itself but was handy for checking progress with the Dremel. When the domed part of the hub cap was done, then the scraper was useful to mark the locations of the two grooves around the edge. These marks then guided the tiny spherical burr for cutting the grooves.
With one success I was ready to tackle the rest of them.
On the car they will look like...
I traced the headlight profile on a piece of acrylic and cut out a template.
One last use of Al's lathe to turn one end of the remaining Hop Hornbeam stick down to 3/8" so it will fit my drill press' chuck.
The headlights will need radial holes for a mounting peg that will attach to the cross bar. I made a larger scale version of the jig I used for the handle on the spare tire hold down.
To make a head light, start with using the above jig to drill a 9/64" hole 1/4" back from the end of the work piece down to the centre line of the piece. Then mount the 3/8" end in the chuck of the drill press (on its side) and use the Dremel and the acrylic template to turn it to shape. I used the tip of the cone burr to make a bezel/lens border around the front of each unit. Sand it, then saw off the piece. Repeat. With the small diameter of the place the headlights were parted off it took just a little time with some 80 grit sandpaper to shape the tapered tail on each light housing.
I made mounting pegs from 9/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel I turned in the drill.
I reused the little jig from making the spare tire hold-down to drill a 5/64" hole across one end of each mounting peg to fit the mounting bar. The ends with the hole were rounded over by sanding while the pegs were spun in the electric drill.
Using the top view picture as a guide I glued the mounting pegs onto the 5/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel.
Glue on the lights and the light assembly is ready for Tung Oil.
A left over piece of the Hop Hornbeam for the radiator grill bars got turned into a Morgan wings badge.
Here it is with a bit of double sided tape holding it in place.
That is it for the bits to make. Now it is down to applying coats of Tung Oil then assembling it for its coming out party at the MSCCC AGM December 2nd.
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
- Parking lights
- Tail lights
- Spare hold down
- Hub caps
- Morgan wings badge for the radiator
- Head lights
In progress:
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
To Do:
- Install wheels, spares, headlights, and badge.
Hoping it would let me shape each hub cap identically, I made a scraper with the hub cap profile.
After Al turned the rest of the Hop Hornbeam work piece to hub cap diameter, we found that the piece, without the tailstock supporting it, wobbled too much to work the end. So rather than turning each hubcap on the lathe then parting it off as planned, I cut six disks off the piece with the aid of the perpendicular magnetic saw guide (One extra for experimentation.) I marked the centre on a face of each one, then drilled a shallow 5/16" hole for the axle on one of them to test if I could turn them on my drill press/lathe. The disk spun with only a slight wobble ( the centre holes were all off by a 32nd) The scraper proved hopeless for shaping the hub caps itself but was handy for checking progress with the Dremel. When the domed part of the hub cap was done, then the scraper was useful to mark the locations of the two grooves around the edge. These marks then guided the tiny spherical burr for cutting the grooves.
With one success I was ready to tackle the rest of them.
On the car they will look like...
I traced the headlight profile on a piece of acrylic and cut out a template.
One last use of Al's lathe to turn one end of the remaining Hop Hornbeam stick down to 3/8" so it will fit my drill press' chuck.
The headlights will need radial holes for a mounting peg that will attach to the cross bar. I made a larger scale version of the jig I used for the handle on the spare tire hold down.
To make a head light, start with using the above jig to drill a 9/64" hole 1/4" back from the end of the work piece down to the centre line of the piece. Then mount the 3/8" end in the chuck of the drill press (on its side) and use the Dremel and the acrylic template to turn it to shape. I used the tip of the cone burr to make a bezel/lens border around the front of each unit. Sand it, then saw off the piece. Repeat. With the small diameter of the place the headlights were parted off it took just a little time with some 80 grit sandpaper to shape the tapered tail on each light housing.
I made mounting pegs from 9/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel I turned in the drill.
I reused the little jig from making the spare tire hold-down to drill a 5/64" hole across one end of each mounting peg to fit the mounting bar. The ends with the hole were rounded over by sanding while the pegs were spun in the electric drill.
Using the top view picture as a guide I glued the mounting pegs onto the 5/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel.
Glue on the lights and the light assembly is ready for Tung Oil.
A left over piece of the Hop Hornbeam for the radiator grill bars got turned into a Morgan wings badge.
Here it is with a bit of double sided tape holding it in place.
That is it for the bits to make. Now it is down to applying coats of Tung Oil then assembling it for its coming out party at the MSCCC AGM December 2nd.
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
- Parking lights
- Tail lights
- Spare hold down
- Hub caps
- Morgan wings badge for the radiator
- Head lights
In progress:
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
To Do:
- Install wheels, spares, headlights, and badge.
Friday, 16 November 2012
Wooden Morgan: 1950 DHC - Week 12
The parking lights were made from a stick of Hop Hornbeam I filed to about 1/8" diameter spinning it in the electric drill. Then shaped the tapered end and parted it off the stick and then repeated for the other one. This gave me the two streamlined light housings. The Hop Hornbeam bases were made by making a perpendicular cut across the edge of the work piece then drilling a 1/8" hole down the centre of the cut. (Just like making the jig for the door handles.) The drilled section was then cut from the wood giving me two pieces with half cylindrical slots to hold the parking lights. These were then shaved and sanded to size and shape.
Next job was supposed to be turning hub caps and head lights at Al's using his lathe. But on the morning of my appointment he had gotten a call that had him rushing to catch a flight to the U.K. so we only had about half an hour. After sizing the work piece to the 0.85" diameter I want for the hub caps I figured I'd better let him go. In saying goodbye I mentioned looking for a red coloured wood for tail lights, Al turned around picked up about a half board foot of Padauk and said, "Here you go."
I used the perpendicular saw guide to cut a wedge from the corner of the board. Then cut off the thick end of the wedge. The remaining wedge I sanded and applied some Tung Oil to get a feel for the finished look. The little stick from the end of the wedge I shaved sort of round with the thumb plane and then mounted in the electric drill to spin it and file and sand it to 1/8" diameter. These tail lights all have a chrome bezel so I drilled a 1/8" hole in the end of a scrap stick of Hop Hornbeam and glued the little dowel of Padauk in the hole. This I cut out as a 5/32" x 5/32" square stick about 3/8" long. Again using the thumb plane I rounded it enough to get it to spin without wobble in the drill as I filed and sanded it to 5/32" diameter. The ends were then rounded over to give a lens and bezel look, and the piece cut in two.
The lights went on the vertical bit under the tail, with this lighting it looks like the brake lights are on.
While I was drilling the holes for the tail lights I decided to drill another in the recess under the tail for a tail pipe.
I completed the top of the spare hold down with another turned-in-the-drill short dowel of Hop Hornbeam with a 1/16" hole drilled across it guided by a door handle type jig. I sanded down the tip of the 5/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel I have for the head light mounting bar until the tip would fit the spare hold down's 1/16" hole. A little smear of glue and it is ready for the final assembly of the spare wheels.
I have started applying the Tung Oil. My new can of it is getting too old, the oil is getting thick. But I found I have an old can that is fine. Hopefully the two coats of the sticky stuff I put on will not interfere with the finish with the good stuff.
You can see the spare hold down and the tail pipe in the yellow squeeze clamp.
In preparation for Al's return, I'm taking his suggestion to make a template of the hub caps' profile. If I can file the profile in one of the blanks that came with the edge beading tool then I can use that to make all the hub caps with the same profile.
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
- Parking lights
- Tail lights
- Spare hold down
In progress:
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
To Do:
- Head lights
- Hub caps
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Install wheels and spares.
Next job was supposed to be turning hub caps and head lights at Al's using his lathe. But on the morning of my appointment he had gotten a call that had him rushing to catch a flight to the U.K. so we only had about half an hour. After sizing the work piece to the 0.85" diameter I want for the hub caps I figured I'd better let him go. In saying goodbye I mentioned looking for a red coloured wood for tail lights, Al turned around picked up about a half board foot of Padauk and said, "Here you go."
I used the perpendicular saw guide to cut a wedge from the corner of the board. Then cut off the thick end of the wedge. The remaining wedge I sanded and applied some Tung Oil to get a feel for the finished look. The little stick from the end of the wedge I shaved sort of round with the thumb plane and then mounted in the electric drill to spin it and file and sand it to 1/8" diameter. These tail lights all have a chrome bezel so I drilled a 1/8" hole in the end of a scrap stick of Hop Hornbeam and glued the little dowel of Padauk in the hole. This I cut out as a 5/32" x 5/32" square stick about 3/8" long. Again using the thumb plane I rounded it enough to get it to spin without wobble in the drill as I filed and sanded it to 5/32" diameter. The ends were then rounded over to give a lens and bezel look, and the piece cut in two.
The lights went on the vertical bit under the tail, with this lighting it looks like the brake lights are on.
While I was drilling the holes for the tail lights I decided to drill another in the recess under the tail for a tail pipe.
I completed the top of the spare hold down with another turned-in-the-drill short dowel of Hop Hornbeam with a 1/16" hole drilled across it guided by a door handle type jig. I sanded down the tip of the 5/64" Hop Hornbeam dowel I have for the head light mounting bar until the tip would fit the spare hold down's 1/16" hole. A little smear of glue and it is ready for the final assembly of the spare wheels.
I have started applying the Tung Oil. My new can of it is getting too old, the oil is getting thick. But I found I have an old can that is fine. Hopefully the two coats of the sticky stuff I put on will not interfere with the finish with the good stuff.
You can see the spare hold down and the tail pipe in the yellow squeeze clamp.
In preparation for Al's return, I'm taking his suggestion to make a template of the hub caps' profile. If I can file the profile in one of the blanks that came with the edge beading tool then I can use that to make all the hub caps with the same profile.
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
- Parking lights
- Tail lights
- Spare hold down
In progress:
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
To Do:
- Head lights
- Hub caps
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Install wheels and spares.
Saturday, 10 November 2012
Wooden Morgan: 1950 DHC - Week 11
I blackened the tires with a black marker pen. Spinning the tires on the electric drill while marking gave me nice smooth lines at the rims.
The body got sanded under the wings to smooth the transition to the flat section under the doors and remove wavers in the router cuts. I also shaped the leading edge of rear wing where it goes down behind the tail of the front wing.
I decided it would be easier to put in the steering wheel before the windscreen. I made it from a piece of Black Walnut an eighth inch thick, cutting out a semi-circle of radius 11/16". To get the smaller segment with the angled base for the steering wheel itself I made a holder by cutting a 31 degree angled slot across a piece of 1 by. I cut the wheel by wedging the semi circle in the slot with 3/8" showing and guiding the dovetail saw by pressing it against the block.
Sanding around the steering wheel revealed some deep tool marks in front of the folded hood area, meaning lots more sanding...
I cut three more 1/16" thick pieces of Hop Hornbeam to complete the windscreen frame. Then with toes crossed (I needed my fingers.) I glued on the windscreen and frame.
I finally made use of a scraper my dad gave me many, many years ago, to square the windscreen pillars and get their sides flush with the side of the body. It cuts slowly but can be controlled to prevent scratching the side of the car. Then more sanding to blend the lines together.
Next I turned rad and gas caps from Hop Hornbeam in the electric drill using a file, sanded them and glued them in place.
The bases of the door handles were made the same way. Then I cut a slot for the handle grip with the help of a jig with a 1/8" hole drilled down in the centre of a cut made with the dove tail saw.
The handle grips are cut from left over radiator grill pieces. After they were glued I sanded and filed them until I was happy with the shape.
Last thing this week was to start working on the spare hold-down. The part that clamps onto the tires was made from a scrap of the Hop Hornbeam, drilled in the centre to take a 5/64" dowel and then band sawed, chiseled, filed and sanded into shape. I still need to make the part that screws onto the top of the hold-down.
The big chunk of Hop Hornbeam beside the car in the picture is earmarked to become hub caps and head lights. And the body just needs a last check-over before applying the Tung oil.
To Do List Update:
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
In progress:
- Spare hold down
To Do:
- Head lights
- Parking lights
- Tail lights? (some do not have any in the pictures)
- Hub caps
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
- Install wheels and spares.
The body got sanded under the wings to smooth the transition to the flat section under the doors and remove wavers in the router cuts. I also shaped the leading edge of rear wing where it goes down behind the tail of the front wing.
I decided it would be easier to put in the steering wheel before the windscreen. I made it from a piece of Black Walnut an eighth inch thick, cutting out a semi-circle of radius 11/16". To get the smaller segment with the angled base for the steering wheel itself I made a holder by cutting a 31 degree angled slot across a piece of 1 by. I cut the wheel by wedging the semi circle in the slot with 3/8" showing and guiding the dovetail saw by pressing it against the block.
Sanding around the steering wheel revealed some deep tool marks in front of the folded hood area, meaning lots more sanding...
I cut three more 1/16" thick pieces of Hop Hornbeam to complete the windscreen frame. Then with toes crossed (I needed my fingers.) I glued on the windscreen and frame.
I finally made use of a scraper my dad gave me many, many years ago, to square the windscreen pillars and get their sides flush with the side of the body. It cuts slowly but can be controlled to prevent scratching the side of the car. Then more sanding to blend the lines together.
Next I turned rad and gas caps from Hop Hornbeam in the electric drill using a file, sanded them and glued them in place.
The bases of the door handles were made the same way. Then I cut a slot for the handle grip with the help of a jig with a 1/8" hole drilled down in the centre of a cut made with the dove tail saw.
The handle grips are cut from left over radiator grill pieces. After they were glued I sanded and filed them until I was happy with the shape.
Last thing this week was to start working on the spare hold-down. The part that clamps onto the tires was made from a scrap of the Hop Hornbeam, drilled in the centre to take a 5/64" dowel and then band sawed, chiseled, filed and sanded into shape. I still need to make the part that screws onto the top of the hold-down.
The big chunk of Hop Hornbeam beside the car in the picture is earmarked to become hub caps and head lights. And the body just needs a last check-over before applying the Tung oil.
To Do List Update:
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Blacken tires.
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- Wind screen pillars
- Wind screen frame
- Gas and rad caps
- Door handles
In progress:
- Spare hold down
To Do:
- Head lights
- Parking lights
- Tail lights? (some do not have any in the pictures)
- Hub caps
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
- Install wheels and spares.
Saturday, 3 November 2012
Wooden Morgan: 1950 DHC - Week 10
Most of my time this week was spent making 'extra fine' saw dust. I do not want to have to squeeze the extra fine sand paper into all the sharp angles after assembly so I did it now.
The wings were first, after plugging the punky centre, then I could insert the scuff guards. These were blackened using some Black Walnut stain on the Black Walnut wood.
I did some more cuts with the "V" chisel to outline the folded away hood (top). Spent a couple of days sanding with 220 grit then I put in the bonnet catch handles.
Now I'm ready to glue on the wings. I cleaned out the dowel holes along the lower edge of the wings and cut a three-wheeler spoke dowel into lengths to fit.
When the glue was dry I routered out a notch 3/16" high, 3/4" in under the wings and 1/2" in at the rear.
To make the slot in the windscreen pillars I made a jig to hold the little pieces. A V cut along a piece of 1/2" pine with a hole for the router bit in the centre.
While I was using the drill press I also drilled a hole to take the rad cap.
I tried blackening the tires with the Black Walnut stain. (A home brew from Black Walnut husks and household ammonia cleaner.) But it does not penetrate very much, a little rubbing with steel wool and it's gone. Maybe just use a marker pen...
I had to see how it is going to look:
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
In progress:
- Wind screen pillars
To Do:
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Door handles
- Wind screen frame
- Head lights
- Hub caps
- Gas and rad caps
- Spare hold down
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Blacken tires.
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
- Install wheels and spares.
The wings were first, after plugging the punky centre, then I could insert the scuff guards. These were blackened using some Black Walnut stain on the Black Walnut wood.
I did some more cuts with the "V" chisel to outline the folded away hood (top). Spent a couple of days sanding with 220 grit then I put in the bonnet catch handles.
Now I'm ready to glue on the wings. I cleaned out the dowel holes along the lower edge of the wings and cut a three-wheeler spoke dowel into lengths to fit.
When the glue was dry I routered out a notch 3/16" high, 3/4" in under the wings and 1/2" in at the rear.
To make the slot in the windscreen pillars I made a jig to hold the little pieces. A V cut along a piece of 1/2" pine with a hole for the router bit in the centre.
While I was using the drill press I also drilled a hole to take the rad cap.
I tried blackening the tires with the Black Walnut stain. (A home brew from Black Walnut husks and household ammonia cleaner.) But it does not penetrate very much, a little rubbing with steel wool and it's gone. Maybe just use a marker pen...
I had to see how it is going to look:
Check List Update
Done:
- Cut outlines of the doors and the bonnet.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the bonnet hinge.
- Do a wood inlay of some Hop Hornbeam for the side trim.
- Bonnet louvers
- Trafficators
- Wing scuff guards
- Bonnet catch knobs
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
- Glue on the wings
- Router off under the wings.
- Round off edges of wings.
In progress:
- Wind screen pillars
To Do:
- Smooth the line under the wings
- Door handles
- Wind screen frame
- Head lights
- Hub caps
- Gas and rad caps
- Spare hold down
- Steering wheel (top that shows above the door)
- ? Morgan wings badge for the radiator?
- Blacken tires.
- Apply Tung Oil finish.
- Install wheels and spares.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)